November, 2011: Nigeria Railway Corporation, Lagos, Nigeria

In the morning, before leaving the hotel, I have told the hotel reception that my itenary for the day would be the Eyo, the National museum next to TBS followed by a visit to the Lagos railway station, before wrapping up in a shopping mall. All the locals here don't seem to be sure if there is a working railway here, let alone heard of a railway station in Lagos. Of all happy coincidents, the driver, Anthony, actually lives in a railway yard.

After the Eyo festival, the museum had already closed for the day, so we cross the bridge to the mainland. On the way to the railway station, he told me that some of the railway employees who are alloted accomodation in the Nigeria Railway Corporation yard rent out space they do not need. His family is one of their tenent. As we approach the yard, I can see a old solid cast-iron Railway Crossing sign right between two shophouses in a crowded residential district. But there were no tracks in sight. Before long, we drove under the arch of the yard entrance.
It was a hugh compound, there were old staff quarters, abondoned tracks and rusting cars. Although I did not see any engine. I saw some cute little railway cars. According to Tony, those aren't for long distance travel, they just runs within the compound serving the residents here.
We park near the station are got of the car. This is supposed to be a busy station on weekdays, but today being a weekend, no trains were running from it. I approach the station. There were two flag staff with the Nigeria and the Railway coporation flags on each. I was pointing at the station signboard on the platform when the driver was trying to warn me of something: "I don't think you should be taking photo at a..."
Before he could finish, someone came from behind and tried to grap away the camera. "Give the camera!! Why are you taking pictures at police station, give me!!" The young man was shouting at me, he was wearing what looks like sarong suit. I first thought he was a snatch thieves, but then he started to identify himself he was police. I was more convinced that the camera shall not leave my hand. And twisted and turn to get free of his embrace. By now, a bigger man in singlet was appraoching us, he took out his wallet to show me his police ID card. Then they point to small building opposite the platform, which is the police station. I don't think they are fake police, and that gave me more reason to hang on to the camera. I can guess what scheme they are cooking up: grap my camera, claim that I have done something unlawful with my picture-taking and force me to cough out some money to get back my camera. At this time, Tony intervene and ask all to calm down.

There was an elder man just beside us. A lady seems to be getting advice from him. Turns out he is the chief of this station. He asked the young man to let go of me. He told me I should have asked for a permit to take pictures of his station, but at least he was polite. Tony went over to apology on my behalf and explain that I am a foreigner just interested in railroad. I then explained that I have taken pictures of trains and stations and never have I being treated like a criminal. He ask me to show him those pictures of trains from other places, and I frantically started to scroll through the SD card content for a picture from Mexico.

The young police was not cool about this, he keep telling the chief what I was doing was illegal and seems determined to have me hand the camera over. "Ignorant of the law is not an excuse!! Ignorant or the law is not an excuse!!!" it would sound like a maxim he live by except he was whining with these words. At this point, Tony was pulled away by the bigger cop. What he told me later was that the cop pull him away to start the 'negotiation': this matters requires some money to settle. Luckily, Tony has the composure to inform him that the chief is already settling it. I promised to delete any pictures I have taken that he may find 'illegal' and he was satisfied. I had to removed three, including one of the cute little train cars. Seeing that his chance of making a few extra naira from a foreigner is slipping away, the young cop made a last ditch effort to get me to hand over my camera. Too bad, the smiling chief was having no more of it: "let the man leave with his pictures. They are foreigners, let them know there are still railway running in Nigeria. Let them go home of these pictures to show his friend..."
Seeing his prey skipping and running off, the two cops kept quiet. Tony and I started apologying for our transgression, shake the cops' and chief's hand and got ready to move off. I even shook the hand of the lady whose dialogue with the chief we have interrupted. She smile as if she have witness something comedic. After I have got my wits back in the car, me and Tony managed a good laugh. Tony actually apology and assure me that not all Nigerian are like this.

After that, all pictures in the yard was taken from the safety of the car, behind the dusty window.
Tony pointed out the workshops, the foundries, the mosque and the housing quarters of the Chinese railway engineers. These were brand new with aircon, the difference between these and the local staff quarters, inherited from the British, was striking. The Chinese enginnering company CCECC (China Civil Engineering Construction Corporation) were based in Lagos to extend the current limited Lagos commuter line into a nationwide network.
After I have enough of the yard, we drove back to the hotel, stopping at one of the largest mall here in Lagos. Next to the mall, on a plot of vacant land, I noticed a sign that says the land belongs to the tribe whose recently deceased chief the Eyo was honouring.
I decided to buy Tony dinner for saving my arse back at the railway police station.
[check out the menu signboard, they have Singapore fried noodles...]
As my promise to the chief, to whoever is reading this: The Nigeria railway is running. There is a short commuter servic from Lagos. But until the Chinese are done, the nationwide network is still work in progress. Watch out for any development. So, there.